What should I know about Heat Lock?
Heat Lock takes only a small amount of practice to master. I recommend experimenting with veneer scraps before tackling your first project. Be sure to keep the iron moving at all times and, of course, be careful to avoid burning yourself. A cotton or flannel tee shirt between the veneer face and the iron will prevent the veneer from scorching. Book-matching or any other veneer seaming technique can be difficult with Heat Lock due to the method of application. More information about this can be found further down in this list of questions and answers.

Can I use yellow glue for iron-on veneer as well?
There are many websites that say you can use yellow glue for iron-on veneering. I find it so disheartening that anyone would deceive their audience, but it seems to be common on the internet these days. They make a 60 second video, post it on YouTube, and now they are an "expert" who mislead hundreds or maybe housands of people. What a shame. While you can use a clothes iron to re-activate yellow glue, the one thing you don't see in those tutorials is what happens one season later when the ambient humidity changes and the wood cells in the veneer shrink or expand. When this happens, the yellow glue lets the veneer move. This is often called "cold creep". Yellow glue can allow the veneer edges to lift and the center parts of the veneer either crack or bubble depending on the direction of the humidity change. Heat Lock glue dries much harder so the cold creep simply does not happen.

How do I apply Heat Lock?
A glue roller is the most ideal tool for spreading this adhesive. Please click here to learn more.

Should I seal the substrate surface before applying Heat Lock?
No. Like all water-based adhesives, Heat Lock only bond to a porous surface. A sealer will prevent Heat Lock was getting a "bite" on the substrate.

To what kind of surfaces will Heat Lock bond?
Heat Lock will work with a variety of virgin substrate materials such as wood, plywood, MDF and particle board if the surface is porous. Some substrates can be made more porous by scuff sanding with 80 grit sandpaper. You can test the porosity of the substrate by placing a few drops of water on the substrate. If the water is not quickly absorbed by the substrate, you may find that the Heat Lock glue will not work. Surfaces top coated with shellac, lacquer, or polyurethane (all of which make surfaces non-porous) will not bond with Heat Lock.

Is Heat Lock suitable for non-virgin substrates?
Non-virgin surfaces are those which previously had a stain, finish, top-coat, adhesive, or other chemical applied to the surface. These chemicals often can not be removed and will impact the integrity of the bond regardless of how much sanding is done to the substrate. Heat Lock is not recommended for non-virgin substrates.

Will Heat Lock work on large projects?
This adhesive is designed for small and medium size projects. It will work on large projects, but doing so requires a lot of time and effort to iron the large surface area. Vacuum pressing with a cold press adhesive is ideal for larger projects, or instead consider using paper-backed veneer and contact cement.

What wood species does this glue work with?
We have tested Heat Lock with 60 different species of wood and achieved excellent results on nearly all of them. Even oily woods like teak respond well to Heat Lock. The only raw wood veneers with some issues are bubinga, East Indian rosewood, figured mahogany, maple and sycamore. Any veneer that has a highly acidic pH may also not be suitable for use with this adhesive.

What kind of wood grains are compatible with Heat Lock?
Do not use this adhesive on crotch grain veneers since the extremely dense wood cells in this type of veneer do not respond well to heat. Burl veneer might be the best grain with Heat Lock. The interlocking and non-directional grain pattern in a burl typically allows the wood cells to respond to a bit of heat without splitting or cracking. Quilted, curly, bird's eye, and flat cut grain veneer can be spritzed with a light coat of veneer softener (immediately before ironing) to minimize splitting near the edges. If softener is applied to the veneer, do the ironing process in a well-ventilated area.

Why are crotch grain veneers not suitable for use with Heat Lock?
Crotch grain veneers do not like changes in moisture content. These changes occur through the addition of moisture from the glue and the fast removal of moisture from the heat of the iron. Also, crotch veneers have a lot of "strength" in their ability to expand and contract even after the glue has dried which can cause cracking and "crazing". For this reason, even cold press glues are typically not suitable for crotch veneers; a rigid-setting adhesive such as Ultra-CAT is the key to success.

Is Heat Lock moisture and heat resistant?
This adhesive is largely unaffected by occasional exposure to moisture if the veneer was properly bonded. To the best of our knowledge, Heat Lock can withstand up to 170° F after it has fully cured.

What filler can I use if my project surface has gouges in it?
Wood fillers typically create a non-porous surface. The problem is that water-based adhesives do not bond very well to non-porous surfaces. When the filler area was minimal, I've had success with both Bondo and with Elmer's "Stainable" wood filler. I've also had success with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty on somewhat larger substrate defects. Be sure to scuff sand the filled areas with 60 or 80 grit paper to get maximum bond strength.

What is the shelf life of Heat Lock?
If stored in a cool (but not cold) and dry location, the shelf life is 12 months.

Do I have to apply the adhesive to the veneer and to the substrate?
Yes. The adhesive will not bond correctly if the adhesive is not on both surfaces.

Can I use this glue even if it is beyond the shelf life?
That is a risk that you have to be willing to take. I would not recommend it and I would not use an expired adhesive for my veneer projects. Typically there are no visual indicators that a glue has exceeded the shelf life and is not suitable for use.

What tools do I need to use Heat Lock?
In addition to veneer, substrate material and the HL adhesive , you'll need a clothes iron, glue roller, and a small piece of cotton or flannel cloth. You may also find it helpful to have masking tape available.

Do I need to do a practice sheet first?
Yes! Absolutely yes! It’s always a good idea to do a test panel with some scrap before you begin the main project.

Will Heat Lock work on thicker veneers?
This adhesive is not suitable for veneers over 1/42". We suggest Ultra-CAT™ adhesive for use with thick veneers.

Will Heat Lock work on plastic laminate?
Like all water-based adhesives, Heat Lock will not bond to a non-porous surface such a plastic laminate.

Can I apply a veneer over top of another veneer?
It is almost never a good idea to apply veneer over another veneer. The best practice is to remove the old veneer first. Keep in mind that you need to get down to a porous surface since water-based glue will not bond to a non-porous surface such as one that previously had glue applied.

How much heat is needed to bond a veneer with Heat Lock?
Bonding is best done with the clothes iron on set to medium/high. On some irons, this will be the "cotton" setting.

Should I enable the steam setting on the iron?
No.

Can I use Heat Lock for seaming two or more veneers together?
Book-matching or any other veneer seaming technique can be very difficult with Heat Lock™ due to veneer shrinkage from the heat of the iron. However, there is a possible "work-around" for the problem. To solve the shrinking problem, you can place a straight piece of clothes hanger wire about 2" away from the seam. Then iron down the seam and a good portion of the veneer on the other side of the hanger wire. Next, pull the clothes hanger wire out and iron down the bubble that it left behind. This will help to force the seam tight. This technique requires a bit of practice, but it does work well once you get an idea of how much shrinking will occur from the iron.

Do I have to move the clothes iron in a certain direction when applying the veneer to the substrate?
It's best to move the iron in the direction of the grain. Generally speaking, it is not advisable to move the iron across the grain. Burl veneers often do not have a grain direction so the iron can be used in any direction.

Should I use veneer softener when ironing the veneer?
In many cases, yes. Veneer softener makes wood cells pliable and allows them contract and expand without separating and thereby causing a split.

Is it ok if the veneer is wavy or rippled before I apply Heat Lock?
The veneer should first be flattened with veneer softener and allowed to fully dry before applying this adhesive.

Will this adhesive work with paper-backed and two ply veneers?
Heat Lock will work very well with paper-backed veneers if the backing is first scuff sanded with 80 or 100 grit sandpaper. However, two-ply veneers have a tendency to be problematic because the extra layer of wood on the back of the veneer insulates the glue line from the heat of the iron and therefore, this product is not recommended.

Can I cut small strips of veneer to make custom edge banding?
Yes! Heat Lock is great for edge banding. It is often best to apply the banding before the veneer is applied to the top of the panel.

Should I veneer both sides of the panel?
Most panels will warp if both sides are not veneered. This is a phenomenon that affects all forms of veneering including vacuum press work.

Can I use Heat Lock to repair a piece of damage or lifted veneer?
Veneer has a tendency to shrink from the heat of the clothes iron which will leave a gap between the edge of the damaged/delaminated veneer and the edge of the original veneer. Also, this adhesive is designed only for use with virgin materials. The best option may be to use BetterBond X-Press veneer glue and place some weight on top of the delaminated veneer while it cures.

My project is fairly large. How much coverage can I expect from a pint?
A pint size bottle of Heat Lock will cover approximately 20 square feet of veneer and 20 square feet of substrate material.

When I applied the adhesive, my veneer started to curl up. What should I do?
Before applying Heat Lock, it is best to tape down the edges of the veneer to a piece of cardboard. Leave the veneer taped down until the glue is set and the panel is ready to be heated.

How soon can I use the panel after it has been veneered?
It's best to let the adhesive fully harden before staining/finishing the veneered surface. This normally takes a few hours.

What is the maximum time between when Heat-Lock is applied to the substrate and when it is ironed on?
Generally speaking, you have no more than 3 hours to use the veneer once the adhesive is applied. This can vary from one species to another and it also depends on the shop humidity and temperature.

What kind of finishes can be used on a project that has been veneered using this adhesive?
Since Heat Lock cures hard, you can use shellac as well as water-based, oil-based, lacquer-based, and alkyd-based stains and top coats. Do not flood the surface with the first coat of finish. Apply a light coat and allow it to dry. Then proceed with heavier coats of finish as needed.

Can I use a water-based stain and/or topcoat with Heat Lock?
If the bond is strong between the substrate and veneer. A water-based finish should be no problem. Once the Heat Lock glue is dry, water will not affect the bond strength. However, if the bond is not adequate (caused by lack of glue or heat), a water-based finish can cause bubbling since wood cells expand with water. If you must use a water-based finish, allow the panel to cool down from the ironing process and then lightly spritz the entire project with water. If the bond is poor, the water will cause any loose or poorly adhered areas to bubble up. You can sometimes reheat the panel within 24 hours of application and get the glue to re-stick and the bubbles to disappear.

Can Heat Lock be used for marquetry projects?
It's probably not a great idea. The heat from the iron can cause the veneers to shrink which could allow gaps to form between the pieces.

What is the maximum amount of heat this adhesive can withstand once it has cured?
For most species and substrates, Heat Lock can maintain the integrity of the bond up to 160°F.

My veneered panel has some bubbled areas on it. What should I do?
Bubbles are caused by poor adhesion between the veneer and the substrate. This often occurs when an inadequate amount of adhesive is used on the veneer and substrate. To avoid this, it is highly recommended that a dedicated glue roller is used to apply the adhesive. Bubbles can also be caused by lack of heat from the iron. It is important to work slowly and methodically when applying the heat to the veneered panel.

To fix a problem area, cut a fine slit into the bubble and inject a bit of Heat Lock inside. Allow it to set up for several minutes and then iron down the imperfection. If your panel already has a finish applied, you will not be able to use heat to re-activate the bond. After 24 hours, the cross-linking polymers in Heat Lock have fully set up and are much less re-activatable with heat. In this case, use this process to flatten the bubbles:

1. Slit the bubble and inject a small amount of Heat Lock inside using a glue injector.
2. Massage the bubble to work the glue around inside. Immediately wipe off any excess that comes back out of the bubble.
3. Place a piece of wax paper over the bubble and then place a piece of 3/4" plywood (8" x 8") on top of the wax paper.
4. Put at least 20 lbs of weight on the plywood and let the glue cure for 6 hours.
5. Remove the weight, plywood, and wax paper.
6. Gently scrape off any excess glue that may have squeezed out of the slit from step 2 above.

After my project is veneered with Heat Lock, can I reactivate the glue area to remove a veneer?
The cross-linking polymers in Heat Lock (which are what makes it so durable) start to set up within a few hours after the veneered panel has dried. Once this happens, the glue is not nearly as re-activatable with heat. While I suspect a clothes iron can create enough heat to allow removal, I doubt most pieces of veneer could withstand that much intense heat and would not come off cleanly.

Can Heat Lock be removed from a substrate if I want to change the veneer?
When used carefully, a heat gun and a sharp-edged putty knife can often be used to remove most of the Heat Lock adhesive from a panel.

Can I use Heat Lock to bond PVC edge banding?
Heat Lock only works on porous surfaces. Since PVC is not porous, it will not work.

Can I use the Heat Lock glue in a heated dry press?
Yes. If you have access to this type of press, Heat Lock can be used. We have been told by Heat Lock users that 150-180° for seven minutes works very well.

Is Heat Lock freeze/thaw stable?
This adhesive is not usable if it is allowed to freeze. Once frozen, it turns to a solid lump of rubber.

Can I remove a veneer applied with Heat Lock and apply another coat of this adhesive for a replacement veneer?
Like all water based adhesives, Heat Lock requires a porous surface to make a bond. You will need to sand off the old veneer and the layer of Heat Lock. The substrate surface must be porous (I can't stress this enough) so this may require very coarse sanding to get below the surface of the first coat of adhesive.

Is there a way to remove excess glue from the veneer?
Glue that has cured on the outside face of the veneer can be removed with Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher. Apply it conservatively and will soften it up and allow you to remove the adhesive with a scraper.

Where can I find a chart that shows all of the Better Bond veneer glue differences?
This downloadable adhesive chart shows all of key points about each of the Better Bond veneer adhesives and may be helpful when choosing a glue for your next veneering project.

Do you have any videos of the product being applied?
Heat Lock is very easy to use and the instructions provided with the glue are easy to follow, so a video is not needed.