The Original "Heat-and-Bond" Veneer Glue!
Heat Lock™ is the woodworker's solution for small or irregularly shaped veneering projects. Designed specifically for iron-on veneering, this adhesive bonds raw and paper-backed veneers to porous substrates such as wood, plywood, MDF and particle board with an ordinary household clothes iron. Having you been looking for iron-on wood veneer but found it too expensive and has limited species availability? If so, Heat Lock solves the problem by allowing you to bond almost any wood veneer to your next project.
To use Heat Lock, simply apply a uniform coat to the substrate and the back side of the veneer. The substrate must be porous. Allow both pieces to dry. Then place the veneer onto the substrate and use a clothes iron (set on medium/high) to "re-activate" the adhesive binder. Apply even downward pressure giving the full veneer area ample time to heat up and bond. Allow an additional 1 to 3 hours for full bond strength. It's never been so easy to iron-on veneer!
Better Bond Heat Lock™ is Ideal For...
Tips from Joe: Heat Lock is a superb adhesive and takes only a small amount of practice to master. I recommend experimenting with veneer scraps before tackling your first project. Be sure to keep the iron moving at all times and, of course, be careful to avoid burning yourself. For best results, apply two coats of Heat Lock to the veneer before ironing. Lastly, an old cotton or flanel Tee shirt between the veneer face and the iron will prevent the veneer from burning. Bookmatching or any other veneer seaming technique can be difficult with Heat Lock due to the method of application. If your project involves a veneer seam/joint a vacuum press would be ideal. Check out the Heat Lock FAQ before ordering.
If you're ordering veneer glue, don't forget a glue roller. It's worth every penny.
Freeze Protection Current Status: Mandatory
This adhesive can not be allowed to freeze. We have implemented a procedure using thermofoil bubble wrap and environmentally safe warming packs to protect this adhesive from freezing in transit. Freeze Protection is mandatory when the temperature drops below 32° F at our warehouse in Maryland. Freeze Protection is optional when the Maryland overnight low temperature is above 32° F for more than 72 hours. No orders with the freeze protection option will be shipped on Fridays.
When Freeze Protection is optional, customers may select freeze protection or decline this service based on their assessment of the temperatures in the delivery area. No refunds or replacements will be offered if the adhesive freezes in transit and the customer has declined the freeze protection option. You are responsible for selecting the appropriate option based on the temperature forecast in your area.
How do I apply Heat Lock?
Please click here to learn how Heat Lock adhesive is applied.
What is the shelf life of Heat Lock?
If stored in a cool (but not cold) and dry location, the shelf life is 12 months.
Can I use this glue even if it is beyond the shelf life?
That is a risk that you have to be willing to take. I would not recommend it and I would not use an expired adhesive for my veneer projects. Typically there are no visual indicators that a glue has exceeded the shelf life and is not suitable for use.
Can I use yellow glue for iron-on veneer as well?
There are many websites that say you can use yellow glue for iron-on veneering. I find it so disheartening that anyone would deceive their audience but it seems to be common on the internet these days. They make a 60 second video, post it on YouTube, and now they are an expert who swindles thousands of people. What a shame. While you can use a clothes iron to re-activate yellow glue, the one thing you don't see in those misleading "tutorials" is what happens one season later when the ambient humidity changes and the wood cells in the veneer shrink or expand. When this happens, the yellow glue lets the veneer move. This is called "cold creep". It allows the veneer edges to lift and the center parts of the veneer either crack or bubble depending on the direction of the humidity change. Heat Lock glue dries much harder so the cold creep simply does not happen.
What tools do I need to use Heat Lock?
In addition to veneer, substrate material and the HL adhesive , you'll need a clothes iron, glue roller, and a small piece of cotton or flannel cloth. You may also find it helpful to have masking tape available.
Do I need to do a practice sheet first?
Yes! It’s always a good idea to do a test panel with some scrap before you begin.
Will Heat Lock work on thicker veneers?
This adhesive is not suitable for veneers over 1/42".
Will Heat Lock work on plastic laminate?
Like all water-based adhesives, Heat Lock will not bond to a non-porous surface such a plastic laminate.
What species does this glue work with?
We've tested Heat Lock with 60 different species of wood and achieved excellent results with each one. Even oily woods like teak respond well to Heat Lock. The only veneers with some issues are quilted bubinga and occasionally with figured mahogany. The extremely dense wood cells in this species do not respond well to heat.
How much heat is needed to bond a veneer with Heat Lock?
Bonding is best done with the clothes iron on set to medium/high. On some irons, this will be the "cotton" setting which is approximately 193°F.
Can I use Heat Lock for seaming two or more veneers together?
Bookmatching or any other veneer seaming technique can be very difficult with Heat Lock™ due to veneer shrinkage from the heat of the iron. However, there is a possible "work-around" for the problem. To solve the shrinking problem, you can place a straight piece of clothes hanger wire about 2" away from the seam. Then iron down the seam. Next, pull the clothes hanger wire out and iron down the bubble that it left behind. This will force the seam tight. This technique requires a bit of practice but it does work well once you get an idea of how much shrinking will occur from the iron.
What kind of wood grains are compatible with Heat Lock?
Burl veneer is probably the best grain with Heat Lock. The interlocking and variant grain pattern in a burl allows the wood cells to respond to heat without splitting or cracking. Quilted, curly, bird's eye, and straight grain veneer should be treated with veneer softener to minimize splitting near the edges.
Why do I need veneer softener when ironing the veneer?
Veneer softener makes wood cells pliable and allows them contract and expand without separating and thereby causing a split.
Will this adhesive work with paperbacked and 2 ply veneers?
Heat Lock will work very well with paper-backed veneers if the backing is first scuff sanded. However, two-ply veneers have a tendency to be problematic because the extra layer of wood on the back of the veneer insulates the glue line from the heat of the iron and therefore, this product is not recommended.
Can I cut small strips of veneer to make custom edgebanding?
Yes! Heat Lock is great for edgebanding. Be sure to apply you banding before you veneer the top of the panel.
Do I need to veneer both sides of the panel?
Yes. Most panels less than 3/4" thick will warp if both sides are not veneered. This is a phenomenon that affects all forms of veneering including vacuum press work.
Why do I need the cotton or flannel cloth?
The cloth is placed between the iron and the veneer to prevent scorching. This also reduces direct heat on the veneer which will minimize splitting caused by excessive heat or poorly manufactured veneer.
Can I use Heat Lock to repair piece of damage or lifted veneer?
Veneer has a tendency to shrink from the heat of the clothes iron which will leave a gap between the edge of the damaged/delaminated veneer and the edge of the original veneer. In this case, the best option is to use BetterBond cold press veneer glue and place some weight on top of the delaminated veneer while it dries.
My project is fairly large. How much coverage can I expect from a pint?
Heat Lock was designed for woodworkers and cabinetmakers who do not want to invest in a vacuum press for small veneer projects. A pint size bottle of Heat Lock will cover approximately 32 square feet of veneer.
Do you have any local distributors for Heat Lock?
At this time, VeneerSupplies.com and Highland Hardware are the only distributors of Heat Lock iron-on veneer adhesive. We are looking for additional distributors. Please contact us for further information.
Does the color of the adhesive show through on lighter wood species like maple?
Due to the thick consistency of Heat Lock, bleed-through is very unlikely so even lighter woods like sycamore and maple are not affected by the color of the adhesive.
What kind of substrate can I use for my panel?
Heat Lock will work with a variety of substrate materials such as wood, plywood, MDF and particle board. Make sure the substrate is clean and porous. Some substrates can be made more porous by scuff sanding with 100 grit sandpaper. You can test the porosity of the substrate by placing a few drops of water on the substrate. If the water is not absorbed by the substrate within 10 seconds, you may find that the Heat Lock glue will not work.
When I applied the adhesive, my veneer started to curl up. What should I do?
Before applying Heat Lock, its best to tape down the edges of the veneer to a piece of cardboard. Leave the veneer taped down until the glue is set and the panel is ready to be heated.
What kind of finish can I use with Heat Lock and how soon can I use the panel after it has been veneered?
It's best to let the adhesive fully harden before staining/finishing the veneered surface. This normally takes a few hours. Since Heat Lock cures hard, practically any non-water based stain or finish can be applied.
Can I use a waterbased stain and/or topcoat with Heat Lock?
If the bond is strong between the substrate and veneer. A waterbased finish should be no problem. Once the Heat Lock glue is dry, water will not affect the bond strength. However, if the bond is not adequate (caused by lack of glue or heat), a waterbased finish can cause bubbling since wood cells expand with water. If you must use a waterbased finish, allow the panel to cool down from the ironing process and then spritz the entire project with water. If the bond is poor, the water will cause any loose or poorly adhered areas to bubble up. You can reheat the panel (within 24 hours of application) and get the glue to re-stick and the bubbles to disappear.
My veneered panel has some bubbled areas on it. What should I do?
Bubbles are caused by poor adhesion between the veneer and the substrate. This often occurs when an inadequate amount of adhesive is used on the veneer and substrate. To avoid this, it is highly recommended that an inexpensive, dedicated glue roller is used to apply the adhesive. Bubbles can also be caused by lack of heat from the iron. It is important to work slowly and methodically when applying the heat to the veneered panel.
To fix a problem area, cut a fine slit into the bubble and inject a bit of Heat Lock inside. Allow it to set up for several minutes and then iron down the imperfection. If your panel already has a finish applied, you wont be able to use heat to re-activate the bond. After 24 hours, the cross linkers in Heat Lock have set up and are much less re-activatable with heat. In this case, use this process to flatten the bubbles:
After my project is veneered with Heat Lock, can I reactivate the glue area to remove a veneer?
The cross polymers in Heat Lock (which are what makes it so durable) start to set up within a few hours after the veneered panel has dried. Once this happens, the glue is not nearly as re-activatable with heat. While I suspect a clothes iron can create enough heat to allow removal, I doubt most pieces of veneer could withstand that much intense heat and would not come off cleanly.
Can I use Heat Lock to bond PVC edgebanding?
Heat Lock only works on porous surfaces. Since PVC is not porous, it will not work.
Can I use the Heat Lock glue in a heated dry press?
Yes. If you have access to this type of press, Heat Lock can be used. We have been told by Heat Lock users that 150-180° for seven minutes works very well.
Is Heat Lock freeze/thaw stable?
This adhesive is not usable if it is allowed to freeze. Once frozen, it turns to a solid lump of very hard rubber.
Can I remove a veneer applied with Heat Lock and apply another coat of this adhesive for a replacement veneer?
Like all water based adhesives, Heat Lock requires a porous surface to make a bond. You will need to sand off the old veneer and the layer of Heat Lock. The substrate surface must be porous (I can't stress this enough) so this may require very coarse sanding to get below the surface of the first coat of adhesive.
Is there a way to remove excess glue from the veneer?
Glue that has cured on the outside face of the veneer can be removed with Minwax Antique Furniture Refinisher. Apply it conservatively and will soften it up and allow you to remove the adhesive with a scraper.
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