Which version of the controller should I get?
If you are replacing the vacuum controller that originally came with your auto-cycling vacuum press kit from our website, then you should order the Type 1 version.

What is the difference between the Type 1 and Type 2 vacuum controller?
The most important difference is the range of adjustment. The Type 1 allows a higher level of vacuum to be applied before shutoff. The Type 2 vacuum controller is better suited to model aircraft builders who need less vacuum for their projects and a smaller differential range.

Can you provide a wiring diagram?
Each vacuum press kit we offer that uses this vacuum controller has a basic wiring diagram included in the kit instructions.

How do I adjust the shut-off level?
Here is a link to our list of kit instructions. Select your kit from the list on the left side of this page. The adjustment information can be found in these instructions.

Which version of the vacuum controller comes with the vacuum press kits?
The Type 1 is the vacuum controller that is included in the kits.

Will a rotary vane vacuum pump work with the vacuum controller?
No. Rotary vane vacuum pumps such as the Gast 1023 and 0523 vacuum pumps have been a nightmare for me. I have found them difficult to fine tune for vacuum pressing, and they draw a tremendous amount of power when they start up. There are much better choices in vacuum pumps than rotary vane. I am well aware that several other companies are using rotary vane pumps for their vacuum press systems.

If you are using a rotary vane pump, you will at least need the relay and vacuum damper parts. I offer ZERO support for troubleshooting vacuum press systems built with rotary vane pumps. If you try to use the vacuum controller with a rotary vane pump, please know that I will not be able to help you troubleshoot problems. You waive your right to return this part if you are using it with a rotary vane pump.

Why does my system require me to tap on the vacuum controller to make it cycle off?
The issue is not caused by the vacuum controller. It is the effect from another problem. There are two typical scenarios where this happens.

1. Carbon will build on the switch contacts inside the vacuum controller if the pump is drawing more amps at start up than the 10 amps that the vacuum controller can handle. This causes the contacts to stick. The solution is to use a relay to do the high-current switching. You'd also have to get a new vacuum controller, but you will not likely have this problem again once this change is made.
 
2. The vacuum pump is being "asked" by the vacuum controller to deliver a higher vacuum than the pump can offer. In this case, the vacuum source (either a vacuum pump or a venturi) typically has some sort of issue which is preventing it from achieving full vacuum. It may be able to achieve slightly less vacuum than what the controller is asking in order for it to switch off the system.

• For a vacuum pump, the most common cause is a clogged exhaust muffler. If your pump has a bronze muffler with hundreds of tiny metal "beads", then simply remove it and soak it in denatured alcohol or lacquer thinner and then blow it out with compressed air.
   
  
• For a venturi (assuming that the air compressor is delivering enough air) the most common cause is debris caught inside the mesh screen at the intake port of the air valve. Simply remove the compressed air fitting from the intake port of the air valve and clean the screen inside.